How to hem at shirt with a sewing machine – How to Hem a Shirt with a Sewing Machine is an art that lies in the intricate dance between threads, fabric, and the whirring machinery that stitches them together. It is a tale of threads, of weaving and unweaving, of the delicate balance between creation and destruction.
In this chapter, we embark on a journey to comprehend the intricacies of sewing with a machine. We will delve into the world of hems, of stitches, and of threads, and discover the secrets of crafting a garment that not only functions but also exudes elegance.
Understanding the Basics of Hemming a Shirt with a Sewing Machine

Hemming a shirt with a sewing machine is a crucial skill for anyone who enjoys fashion, sewing, or is passionate about creating their own unique clothing items. Not only can it save you money by preventing frayed edges and worn-out hems, but it also allows you to express your personal style and tailor garments to fit your body perfectly.
When it comes to choosing the right fabric for hemming, there are several factors to consider. The type of fabric, its thickness, and the intended use of the garment all play a significant role in determining the best method for hemming.
Necessary Sewing Machine Features and Accessories
To hem a shirt with a sewing machine, you’ll need a few essential features and accessories. Firstly, you’ll require a sewing machine with a straight stitch or a zigzag stitch capability, depending on the type of fabric you’re working with. A walking foot or a Teflon foot can also be useful for guiding the fabric under the presser foot. Additionally, you’ll need some basic sewing needles, matching thread, and a ruler or measuring tape to ensure accurate measurements.
Here’s a list of common types of fabric suitable for hemming:
| Fabric Type | Description | Care Label | Hemming Challenges |
| — | — | — | — |
| Cotton | Breathable, durable, and absorbent | Machine wash, dry flat | May shrink or stretch |
| Linen | Natural, breathable, and lightweight | Hand wash, dry flat | May wrinkle or fray easily |
| Rayon | Soft, drapey, and semi-synthetic | Machine wash, dry flat | May shrink or lose shape |
| Polyester | Durable, wrinkle-resistant, and easy to clean | Machine wash, dry flat | May be prone to pilling or fraying |
Understanding Hemming Techniques
When it comes to hemming a shirt, there are several techniques to choose from, depending on the type of fabric and the desired effect. You can opt for a blind hem, which invisibly secures the hemline, or a visible hem, which creates a more textured and layered look. You can also use a serger or an overlock machine to finish the raw edges of the hem, preventing fraying and giving a professional finish.
When in doubt, it’s always best to test a small sample of the fabric first to determine the best hemming technique and any potential challenges.
Selecting the Right Thread and Notions
When sewing and hemming a shirt, it’s essential to choose the right thread and notions to match the fabric and create a consistent look. For cotton and linen fabrics, a matching cotton thread is usually the best choice, while for synthetic fibers like polyester and rayon, a nylon thread may be more suitable. Make sure to use a matching thread color to blend with the fabric, and don’t forget to have a range of needles and threads on hand to accommodate different fabric types and sewing techniques.
Measuring and Cutting the Hem

When working with a sewing machine to hem a shirt, accurately measuring and cutting the hem is crucial for achieving the desired length. Begin by examining the existing hem of the shirt to determine the length you want to achieve.
Measuring the Existing Hem
To measure the existing hem, locate the bottom of the shirt and measure the length from the bottom edge of the shirt to the desired length. Make sure to account for any folding or ease when measuring the length, as this will affect the final result. You might want to take note of this measurement and keep it handy for future reference.
| Tip | Description |
|---|---|
| Use a flexible measuring tape | For precise measurements, use a flexible measuring tape that can be easily wrapped around the shirt to measure the length. |
| Accurate fold calculation | Calculate the fold allowance carefully, as this will affect the final length of the hem. A standard fold allowance is 0.5-1 cm, but this may vary depending on the type of fabric and personal preference. |
Cutting the Hem with Precision
To achieve a precise cut, carefully measure and mark the fabric along the desired length. Use a rotary cutter or sharp scissors specifically designed for cutting fabric to make the cut. Cutting carefully will prevent the fabric from fraying or becoming distorted, thus ensuring a clean and even finish. It’s worth noting, cutting in the same direction as the fabric’s grain helps prevent distortion. The cut edge can be smoothed out afterward to neaten it up.
To cut the hem accurately, use one of the following tools:
- A rotary cutter for precise cuts.
- Sharp scissors specifically designed for cutting fabric.
Sewing the New Hem

Now that we have our measurements and fabric ready, it’s time to sew the new hem. This is the most crucial part of the process, as it will determine the length and appearance of your shirt. To ensure a professional finish, it’s essential to position the fabric correctly and choose the right stitch.
To position the fabric, place the shirt under the presser foot with the edge of the hem aligned with the edge of the presser foot. Make sure the fabric is smooth and even, with no wrinkles or creases. This will ensure a clear and consistent stitch. Next, thread your sewing machine with a matching thread color to blend seamlessly with the fabric. Choose a stitch that suits your fabric type, be it cotton, polyester, or silk.
Different Types of Hemming Stitches
There are several hemming stitches to choose from, each with its unique characteristics. Here are some common ones:
- Straight Stitch: This is the most basic stitch used for hemming. It’s straightforward and works well for most fabrics. The stitch is created by sewing a straight line, usually with a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
- Zigzag Stitch: This stitch is ideal for preventing fraying and giving a more finished look. It creates a zigzag pattern along the edge of the hem, securing the fabric in place.
- Oversize Stitch: This stitch is used for thicker or heavier fabrics, providing extra support and stability to the hem.
- Dual-Needle Stitch: This stitch uses two needles to create a seamless finish. It’s perfect for delicate or sheer fabrics, where a single needle might be too visible.
Using a Zigzag Stitch for Finishing the Seam
The zigzag stitch is an excellent choice for finishing the seam, as it prevents fraying and gives a professional finish. This stitch is particularly useful for delicate or slippery fabrics, where a straight stitch might not hold well. To use a zigzag stitch, simply select the stitch on your sewing machine and adjust the stitch length and width to your preference. Sew a small test seam before starting the main hem to ensure the stitch is even and consistent.
By using a zigzag stitch, you can create a strong and durable hem that will last for a long time. This stitch is also easy to sew, making it a great choice for beginners and experienced sewers alike.
Pressing and Finishing the Hem
When it comes to hemming a shirt with a sewing machine, pressing and finishing the hem is an essential step that requires attention to detail. A well-pressed hem not only enhances the overall appearance of the shirt but also ensures that the new hem lies flat and doesn’t come undone over time. To achieve a perfect press, it’s crucial to follow some key tips and techniques.
Ironing a Fresh Crease on the New Hem
One of the most critical steps in pressing and finishing the hem is ironing a fresh crease into the new hem. This involves using a hot iron to create a sharp, crisp crease that will hold the hem in place. To do this, follow these steps:
Set your iron to the correct temperature for the type of fabric you’re working with. For cotton and linen, use a high heat setting, while for synthetics, use a lower heat setting to avoid scorching.
Select a steam iron if possible, as steam helps relax the fibers in the fabric, making it easier to smooth out wrinkles and create a sharp crease.
Lay your shirt flat on a pressing board, with the hem facing up. Use a hot iron to press the hem, working from the center outwards to create a crisp, smooth crease.
For a more professional-looking finish, use a pressing cloth or a piece of interfacing under the hem to prevent scorching and create a crisp, sharp crease.
Pressing the Hem Without Scorching the Fabric
Pressing the hem without scorching the fabric requires some finesse and attention to detail. Here are some tips to help you get it right:
| Tip | Description |
|---|---|
| Use a pressing cloth or interfacing under the hem to prevent scorching and create a crisp, sharp crease. | A pressing cloth or interfacing helps to distribute the heat evenly and prevents scorching, which can damage the fabric. |
| Work on a stable surface, such as a pressing board or a smooth, heat-resistant surface. | A stable surface helps prevent the fabric from moving or slipping while you’re ironing, allowing you to achieve a sharp, smooth crease. |
| Use steam judiciously, as excessive steam can damage certain fabrics. | Steam helps relax the fibers in the fabric, making it easier to smooth out wrinkles and create a sharp crease, but excessive steam can damage certain fabrics, such as silk or wool. |
Using Steam to Set the Press Without Burning the Shirt, How to hem at shirt with a sewing machine
Steam is an essential tool in pressing and fininishing the hem, but it can be easy to overdo it. Here are some tips for using steam effectively to set the press without burning the shirt:
Use a steam iron or a handheld steam tool specifically designed for pressing fabrics.
Apply steam judiciously, using short bursts of steam to set the press without overpowering the fabric.
Hold the iron or steam tool about 6-8 inches away from the fabric, allowing the steam to penetrate the fabric evenly without overheating the surface.
For delicate or sensitive fabrics, use a low-steaming setting or avoid using steam altogether to prevent damage.
Always test a small, inconspicuous area of the fabric first to ensure that the steam setting and temperature won’t damage the fabric.
Final Summary: How To Hem At Shirt With A Sewing Machine
Thus, we conclude our sojourn in the realm of hems, with a newfound appreciation for the art of sewing with a machine. The journey may have been arduous, but the rewards are immeasurable. And as we lay our tools to rest, we cannot help but feel a sense of satisfaction, knowing that we have tamed the beast of the unhemmed garment and emerged victorious.
Popular Questions
Q: Can I use any type of fabric to hem with a sewing machine?
A: While some fabrics may be more challenging to work with than others, most types of fabric can be successfully hemmed using a sewing machine.
Q: What type of thread should I use for hemming?
A: The type of thread you should use for hemming depends on the fabric you are working with. Generally, a matching thread color or a neutral-colored thread like beige or light brown works well.
Q: Why is the tension on my sewing machine so important?
A: The tension on your sewing machine is crucial for a successful hem. If the tension is too loose, your hem may be prone to fraying, while too-tight tension may cause puckering or distortion.
Q: Can I hem a delicate or silk fabric with a sewing machine?
A: Hemming delicate or silk fabrics requires extra care and attention to detail. Use a shorter stitch length and a matching thread color to minimize the risk of damage.
Q: How can I prevent my hem from curling or fraying?
A: To prevent curling and fraying, use a zigzag stitch or a serger stitch when hemming your garment. This will give your hem a smooth, finished appearance and prevent fraying.