How to sew a hem with a sewing machine is an essential skill for any sewer or crafter. The purpose of sewing a hem on a garment is to create a smooth, even finish and prevent fraying. There are several types of hems used in clothing, including straight hems, curved hems, and blind hems. In this guide, we will cover the basics of hemming with a sewing machine, including choosing the right machine, preparing fabric, and basic hemming techniques.
Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewer, sewing a hem with a sewing machine can seem intimidating, but with the right guidance, it’s an easy skill to master. In this comprehensive guide, we will walk you through each step of the process, from selecting the right sewing machine to troubleshooting common hemming issues.
Understanding Hemming with a Sewing Machine
When working with garments, especially those that require a neat and polished finish, sewing a hem is an essential step in the construction process. A hem is a fold of fabric that encases the raw edge of a garment, protecting it from fraying and providing a clean, finished look.
In garment construction, the purpose of sewing a hem goes beyond aesthetics; it plays a crucial role in the overall structure and durability of the garment. A well-made hem can prevent the fabric from fraying, reduce the risk of tears, and maintain the shape of the garment over time. Furthermore, a good hem can also help to prevent the garment from becoming misshapen or stretched out.
Types of Hems
There are various types of hems used in clothing, each serving a specific purpose and suited for particular types of garments. Some common types of hems include:
A well-made hem is crucial for maintaining the shape and structure of a garment, and prevents it from fraying.
- Traditional Hem: Also known as a straight hem, this type is typically used for casual clothing such as t-shirts, jeans, and shorts. The raw edge of the fabric is folded up by a fixed length and then sewn in place using a straight stitch.
- Rolled Hem: This type of hem is preferred for more formal garments like dresses and tops. The folded edge is sewn in place using a blind hem stitch or an overlock stitch, creating a narrow, rounded fold.
- Blind Hem: As mentioned earlier, this type of hem is particularly useful for delicate fabrics or those that require a neat and invisible finish. The folded edge is sewn in place using an invisible stitch, leaving a very short stitch length.
- Let Down Hem: This type of hem involves allowing the raw edge of the fabric to hang loose, then sewing a second row of stitches to encase it.
- Foldover Hem: This type of hem is suitable for lightweight fabrics and involves folding the raw edge of the fabric twice, then sewing it in place.
In addition to these types, hem lengths can also vary, ranging from a short hem to a longer hem that is often used in clothing with long skirts or dresses.
Importance of Sewing Hemlines
Sewing hemlines is an essential step in garment construction, as it plays a crucial role in maintaining the shape, structure, and quality of the garment. By sewing a hem, you can prevent the raw edge of the fabric from fraying, thereby reducing the risk of tears and other damage. Additionally, a well-made hem can also help to maintain the shape and structure of the garment, keeping it looking neat and polished for a longer period.
Preparation of Fabric for Hemming
Before we dive into the process of sewing a hem, it’s essential to prepare the fabric correctly. A proper preparation of the fabric ensures that the hem will be smooth, even, and of high quality. In this section, we will cover pressing, ironing, seam allowance, and the different types of fabrics that are suitable for hemming.
Pressing and Ironing Fabric
————————-
Pressing and Ironing
To start with, make sure to press and iron the fabric to remove any wrinkles or creases. This ensures that the fabric lies flat and straight, making it easier to work with. When ironing a new fabric, always follow the care label instructions, as some fabrics may require special care. For cotton, linen, and other natural fibers, use a medium to high heat setting, while for synthetic fibers, use a low heat setting.
Before ironing, it’s a good idea to check the fabric for any labels or tags. These should be removed before proceeding, as they can leave behind sticky residue or even burn the fabric. Iron the fabric on its wrong side, starting from the center and working your way outwards in both directions. Make sure to iron the seams as well, as they can create uneven surfaces if not done properly.
Seam Allowance
————–
Important Seam Allowance
When it comes to sewing a hem, the seam allowance is critical. The seam allowance is the distance between the edge of the fabric and the line of stitching. This is usually 1/4 inch (6mm) on the wrong side, but can vary depending on the specific project or style. Using the correct seam allowance ensures that the hem lies flat and doesn’t pucker or bulge.
A good way to ensure the correct seam allowance is to use a piece of tape or a ruler to mark the line of stitching. You can also use a sewing gauge, which is a small tool that helps you keep a consistent seam allowance. Always test your seam allowance on a scrap piece of fabric before proceeding with the actual hemming process.
Types of Fabrics
—————-
Suitable Fabrics
Not all fabrics are suitable for hemming. Some may fray easily, while others may not hold the stitches well. Here are a few types of fabrics that are commonly used for hemming:
- Cotton: A popular choice for hemming, cotton is durable and easy to work with. It comes in various weights and weaves, from light and loose to heavy and tight.
- Dense weaves: Fabrics with dense weaves, such as linen or canvas, work well for hemming. They provide a smooth surface and are resistant to fraying.
- Synthetic fibers: While not as popular as cotton or linen, synthetic fibers like polyester or nylon can also be used for hemming. They are often less expensive than natural fibers and can be finished to a high shine.
Always check the fabric’s care label and select a suitable hemming technique based on its properties. For example, if you’re working with a delicate fabric, you may need to use a more precise hemming technique to avoid damaging the fabric.
Basic Hemming Techniques
When it comes to hemming your garments, understanding the different techniques and stitches can make all the difference. A well-hemmed garment can greatly improve its fit and appearance. In this section, we will explore three fundamental hemming techniques: straight hem stitch, curved hem, and stretch stitch for hemming knit fabrics.
The Straight Hem Stitch: Demystifying this Essential Stitch
The straight hem stitch is a fundamental stitch that is essential for hemming most types of fabrics. To create a straight hem stitch using a sewing machine, you will need to follow these steps:
- Set your sewing machine to the straight stitch or hem stitch setting.
- Thread your machine with the matching thread color.
- Place the garment on the machine, aligning the fabric with the edge of the sewing table.
- Lower the presser foot and begin sewing along the edge of the hem, keeping a steady and consistent pace.
- Press the seam as you go, to create a crisp and clean finish.
- Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam to secure it in place.
The straight hem stitch is a versatile stitch that can be used for a wide range of fabrics, from cotton and linen to lightweight knits. With practice, you can master this stitch and achieve professional-looking results.
Curved Hems: Adding a Touch of Sophistication to Your Garments
Curved hems are a stylish and sophisticated feature that can elevate the appearance of your garments. To create a curved hem on a sewing machine, you will need to follow these steps:
- Set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch setting.
- Thread your machine with the matching thread color.
- Place the garment on the machine, aligning the fabric with the edge of the sewing table.
- Lower the presser foot and begin sewing along the curved edge of the hem, using a slow and steady pace to maintain control.
- Press the seam as you go, to create a crisp and clean finish.
- Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam to secure it in place.
Curved hems can be used to add a touch of elegance to dresses, blouses, and other garments. With practice, you can master this stitch and achieve beautiful and unique results.
Stretch Stitch for Hemming Knit Fabrics: The Secret to a Flattering Fit
When it comes to hemming knit fabrics, using the stretch stitch is essential to prevent distortion and ensure a flattering fit. The stretch stitch, also known as the stretch hem stitch or the four-step zigzag stitch, is a specialized stitch that is specifically designed for hemming stretchy fabrics. To use the stretch stitch for hemming knit fabrics, follow these steps:
- Set your sewing machine to the stretch stitch setting.
- Thread your machine with the matching thread color.
- Place the knit garment on the machine, aligning the fabric with the edge of the sewing table.
- Lower the presser foot and begin sewing along the edge of the hem, using a slow and steady pace to maintain control.
- Press the seam as you go, to create a crisp and clean finish.
- Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam to secure it in place.
The stretch stitch is a vital stitch for any sewer working with knit fabrics. By mastering this stitch, you can ensure a flattering and well-fitting garment that drapes beautifully on the body.
Adding a Blind Hem Using a Sewing Machine
A blind hem is a type of hem that is almost invisible from the outside. It is particularly useful for garments that require a sleek, streamlined look, such as pants, skirts, and dresses. By creating a blind hem, you can conceal the stitching that would normally be visible on the inside of the fold and create a seamless finish.
Why Use a Blind Hem?
A blind hem is ideal for various types of fabrics, including knits and stretchy materials, where a visible hem might be too bulky or unsightly. This type of hem also reduces the risk of fraying or unraveling, as it creates a smooth, even edge that lies flat against the fabric. Additionally, blind hems are quick and easy to create, making them a time-saving solution for sewing enthusiasts.
Setting Up Your Sewing Machine
To set up your sewing machine for a blind hem, you’ll need to adjust the stitch length and width, as well as the thread tension. The specific settings may vary depending on the type of machine you have and the fabric you’re working with. It’s essential to consult your machine’s user manual or online resources for guidance on proper setup and usage.
Using a Straight Stitch or Specialized Foot, How to sew a hem with a sewing machine
To create a blind hem using a sewing machine, you can employ either a straight stitch or a specialized foot designed specifically for this task. The straight stitch method involves positioning the fabric in the machine and sewing along the edge of the fold, using a backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam to secure it in place. The specialized foot, on the other hand, allows for a more precise and automatic blind hem, eliminating the need for manual adjustments and ensuring a perfect finish every time.
-
For a straight stitch blind hem, start by positioning the fabric in the machine and aligning the edge of the fold with the needle. Choose the desired stitch length and width, as well as the thread tension, according to your machine’s specifications and the type of fabric you’re working with.
-
Begin sewing along the edge of the fold, using a backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam to secure it in place. Make sure to keep the fabric taut and smooth, using a walking foot or even feed foot as needed to maintain tension.
-
When sewing the straight stitch blind hem, it’s essential to maintain a consistent seam allowance and to keep the fabric aligned with the edge of the fold. This will ensure a smooth, even finish and prevent puckering or distorting of the fabric.
-
For a specialized foot blind hem, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installation and usage. Typically, this involves positioning the fabric in the foot and adjusting the stitch length and width according to the machine’s specifications. The specialized foot will automatically guide the fabric and create a perfect blind hem every time.
Finishing the Hem with a Serger or Overlock
The finishing process for a hem using a serger or overlock is a crucial step to ensure the longevity and durability of your garment. While sewing a hem is sufficient, using a serger or overlock adds an extra layer of protection against fraying and wear, making it a vital tool for professional seamstresses and enthusiasts alike.
When it comes to finishing a hem with a serger or overlock, the benefits are numerous. First and foremost, sergers and overlocks provide a professional finish to your garments, giving them a polished appearance and a touch of elegance. Moreover, these machines create a narrow stitch that encases the raw edge of the fabric, preventing fraying and damage to the garment. This is especially essential for garments that undergo repeated wear and tear, such as dresses, tops, and pants.
Types of Stitch Options Available on a Serger or Overlock
Serger and overlock machines come equipped with various stitch options designed to accommodate different types of fabrics and garments. Here are a few common stitch options:
- Overlock stitch: This stitch is the most common and versatile stitch, suitable for most fabrics, including knits and wovens. It provides a clean, narrow finish to the garment and prevents fraying.
- Blind hem stitch: This stitch is perfect for creating a nearly invisible hemline. It’s particularly useful for garments where a visible hemline might detract from their appearance.
- Three-step zigzag stitch: This stitch offers additional security against fraying and is ideal for delicate or stretchy fabrics.
When choosing a stitch option, consider the type of fabric you’re working with and the desired level of security. For example, if you’re working with a delicate or stretchy fabric, a three-step zigzag stitch might be a better choice than an overlock stitch. On the other hand, if you’re working with a sturdy fabric and want a clean finish, an overlock stitch might be the best option.
Using a Serger or Overlock for Hemming
To use a serger or overlock for finishing a hem, follow these basic steps:
1. Thread your serger or overlock according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Prepare your fabric by ironing it to create a crisp fold or by marking a precise hemline.
3. Adjust your serger or overlock’s stitch length and width according to your chosen stitch option.
4. Guide your fabric through the machine, using the edge guide or alignment notch to ensure a straight finish.
5. Keep a steady pace while sewing, maintaining a consistent distance between stitches.
By mastering the technique of using a serger or overlock for hemming, you’ll elevate your sewing skills and create beautiful, long-lasting garments that meet the highest standards.
Conclusion
In conclusion, sewing a hem with a sewing machine is a fundamental skill that every sewer or crafter should know. By following the steps Artikeld in this guide, you will be able to create smooth, even hems that will enhance the appearance of your garments. Remember to practice regularly and don’t be afraid to experiment with different fabrics and techniques.
Helpful Answers: How To Sew A Hem With A Sewing Machine
Can I use a sewing machine to hem a stretchy fabric?
Yes, you can use a sewing machine to hem a stretchy fabric, but you’ll need to use a specialized foot and stitch to prevent puckering and ensure a secure fit.
What is the best type of sewing machine for hemming?
The best type of sewing machine for hemming is one that has a variety of stitch options, including a straight stitch, a zigzag stitch, and a blind hem stitch. A computerized sewing machine with a walking foot or Teflon foot is ideal for hemming.
