Kicking off with sewing a blind hem on sewing machine, it’s essential to understand the purpose and benefits of this vital sewing technique. A blind hem creates a nearly invisible fold at the bottom of your pant leg or skirt, providing a crisp and professional finish that makes any garment look like it came straight from a high-end fashion store.
The process of sewing a blind hem might seem daunting at first, but with the right tools and a bit of practice, you’ll be creating seamless hems in no time. In this guide, we’ll walk you through every step of the process, from preparing your fabric to troubleshooting common issues.
Preparing the Fabric for a Blind Hem
Preparing the fabric for a blind hem is a crucial step in achieving a professional-looking finish. A blind hem is a seam that is designed to be invisible or nearly invisible, which means that the fabric needs to be prepared carefully to ensure that the hem lies flat and doesn’t pucker or distort. In this section, we’ll cover the key steps involved in preparing the fabric for a blind hem.
Measuring and Cutting Fabric for a Blind Hem
——————————————–
When measuring and cutting fabric for a blind hem, it’s essential to follow a few key guidelines. First, you’ll need to ensure that the fabric is stretched to its maximum length, either by pinning it to a large surface or by using a stretching device. This will give you an accurate measurement of the fabric’s length.
Next, you’ll need to cut the fabric along the length you’ve just measured, using a sharp rotary cutter or scissors. It’s essential to cut the fabric carefully and accurately, as any errors can lead to puckering or distortion in the hem.
When cutting the fabric, make sure to cut it on the straight grain, which is typically marked on the fabric by parallel lines or a grain line. Cutting on the straight grain ensures that the fabric lies flat and doesn’t stretch or distort.
However, when working with knits or stretchy fabrics, it’s often necessary to cut the fabric on the bias (at a 45-degree angle to the straight grain). This will give the fabric more flexibility and allow it to drape smoothly over the body.
Identifying the Right Grain Line
——————————-
Determining the right grain line for a blind hem can be a bit tricky, but it’s essential to get it right. If the grain line is not marked on the fabric, you can usually identify it by looking for the following clues:
* The fabric will typically have a smooth, even texture along the straight grain.
* The fabric will be less prone to stretch or distortion along the straight grain.
* The fabric will have a clear, visible grain line marked on it (usually in the form of parallel lines or a grid).
When working with knits or stretchy fabrics, the grain line may be less visible or distorted, making it more difficult to identify. In this case, you can try the following:
* Look for the direction of the fabric’s stretch. This will often be indicated by a subtle “peak” or “valley” along the edge of the fabric.
* Use a ruler or measuring tape to check the fabric’s texture and grain. A fabric that is cut on the bias will typically have a more irregular texture and a more pronounced grain line.
Tips for Preparing the Fabric for a Smooth Hem
————————————————-
To ensure that your blind hem lies smooth and even, follow these tips:
* Use a ruler or measuring tape to check the fabric’s grain line and texture.
* Cut the fabric carefully and accurately, using a sharp rotary cutter or scissors.
* Stretch the fabric to its maximum length before cutting it.
* Use a stretching device or pinning the fabric to a large surface to get an accurate measurement.
* Iron the hem allowance before sewing, to help the fabric lie flat and smooth.
Setting Up the Sewing Machine
When working on a blind hem, setting up your sewing machine correctly is crucial for achieving a seamless and professional finish. A blind hem stitch requires precise threading and tensioning of the upper thread, as well as selecting the right stitch length and width.
Threading and Tensioning the Upper Thread
To thread your sewing machine for a blind hem, start by locating the spool pin and the take-up lever. Insert the thread into the spool pin and gently pull it through the machine. Next, locate the thread guides and pass the thread through the upper guide, then the tension disc, and finally the take-up lever. Adjust the tension by gently pulling on the thread while turning the machine on and off until the thread is taut but not too tight.
Setting the Stitch Length and Width
The stitch length and width on your sewing machine control the appearance and durability of your blind hem stitch. A longer stitch length will result in a more visible stitch, while a shorter stitch length will make it less noticeable. Similarly, a wider stitch width will create a thicker stitch, while a narrower width will create a thinner one. For a blind hem, you’ll typically want to use a shorter stitch length (around 1-2 mm) and a narrower stitch width (around 0.5-1 mm).
Choosing the Right Stitch Option, Sewing a blind hem on sewing machine
Your sewing machine likely has a variety of stitch options, including straight stitch, zigzag stitch, and blind hem stitch. For a blind hem, you’ll want to use a special blind hem stitch or a combination of straight and zigzag stitches. Some sewing machines also allow you to adjust the stitch density, which can help you achieve a more subtle or more visible stitch.
-
Blanking Stitch:
This stitch type is ideal for a blind hem because it creates a stitch that is completely invisible from the right side of the fabric.
-
Blind Hem Stitch:
This stitch type is a more versatile option that can be used for both right- and left-side seams.
Marking the Hemline
Marking the hemline is a crucial step in creating a seamless blind hem. To achieve a crisp, professional finish, it’s essential to accurately mark the hemline on the fabric. This can be done using a ruler or seam gauge, hemming tape, or chalk.
Using a Ruler or Seam Gauge
When marking the hemline using a ruler or seam gauge, place the ruler along the edge of the fabric, aligning it with the desired hemline. Make sure to press the ruler firmly against the fabric to achieve a clear mark. For a more accurate mark, use a seam gauge, which can be adjusted to the perfect distance from the edge of the fabric. This ensures a precise mark and helps you achieve a consistent hemline.
Hemming Tape or Chalk
Alternatively, you can use hemming tape or chalk to mark the hemline. Hemming tape is a thin, specialized tape that is designed specifically for marking hemlines. Apply the tape along the edge of the fabric, ensuring it is pressed firmly against the fabric. The tape will create a clear, visible mark that is easy to see. Chalk, on the other hand, can be used to create a light, temporary mark on the fabric. Apply the chalk lightly along the edge of the fabric, making sure not to press too hard, which can cause the chalk to smudge or disappear.
Accurately Marking the Hemline
Regardless of the method you choose, it’s essential to make sure your mark is accurate and even. To achieve this, follow these steps:
* Place the fabric on a flat surface, smoothing it out to minimize wrinkles.
* Hold the ruler or seam gauge firmly against the fabric, ensuring it is aligned with the desired hemline.
* Apply gentle pressure to the ruler or seam gauge, making sure it is pressed firmly against the fabric.
* Use a ruler or seam gauge to ensure the mark is straight and even.
* Alternatively, use hemming tape or chalk to create a clear, visible mark.
Finishing the Hems
Finishing the hems is a crucial step in creating a professional-looking garment. A blind hem requires a delicate balance between securing the hem allowance in place and preventing fraying or damage to the fabric. With the right techniques and stitches, you can achieve a seamless, invisible hem that complements your garment.
Securing the Hem Allowance in Place
There are several methods for securing the hem allowance in place, ensuring that your blind hem remains intact and secure. One popular approach is to use a blind hem stitch or a zigzag stitch, which creates a tight, flexible seam that prevents fraying. To achieve this, you can use a blind hem foot or a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine.
For delicate fabrics or intricate designs, consider using a narrow hem stitch or a satin stitch. These stitches are ideal for adding a decorative element to your blind hem while maintaining its structural integrity. When using any of these stitches, ensure that you maintain a consistent tension to prevent puckering or gathering.
Using Zigzag Stitch or Overlocking for Finishing the Hems
Zigzag stitch or overlocking is an excellent choice for finishing the hems, particularly on stretchy or lightweight fabrics. This stitch creates a flexible seam that allows for a smooth, even stretch while preventing fraying. To achieve this look, select a zigzag stitch or overlocking stitch on your sewing machine and adjust the length and width to suit your fabric.
When working with stretchy fabrics, it’s essential to use a longer stitch length to allow for flexibility. For denser fabrics, a shorter stitch length is recommended to prevent bulkiness. Always test your stitch on a scrap piece of fabric before applying it to your garment to ensure that it’s working as intended.
Pressing the Hems to a Crisp Fold
A crisp fold is essential for creating a professional-looking blind hem. To achieve this, use a hot iron and a pressing cloth or a damp cloth to secure the fabric in place. Press the hem allowance in a gentle, sustained motion, working slowly from one end of the seam to the other.
When pressing the hem allowance, ensure that you press it in a way that allows for even relaxation of the fabric. This prevents the hem from puckering or gathering. For delicate fabrics, use a low heat setting and a gentle hand to avoid damaging the fabric.
Last Word: Sewing A Blind Hem On Sewing Machine
With these essential tips and techniques, you’re well on your way to mastering the art of sewing a blind hem on your sewing machine. Remember to take your time, use the right tools, and don’t be afraid to experiment with different stitches and settings until you achieve the perfect finish.
Question Bank
How do I prevent the hem from becoming puckered?
Use a walking foot or even feed foot to help guide the fabric and prevent puckering. Make sure to use a stable stitch length and width, and don’t pull the fabric too tight while sewing.
Can I use a different type of fabric for a blind hem?
How do I fix a thread break or skipped stitch?
Simply re-thread your machine and start sewing again. If the issue persists, try adjusting the tension or using a higher-quality thread.
Can I use a blind hem foot on any sewing machine?
Not all sewing machines come with a blind hem foot, and not all machines are designed to accommodate one. Check your machine’s manual or manufacturer’s website to see if a blind hem foot is available for your model.
How do I press the hem to create a crisp fold?
To create a crisp fold, use a hot iron and steam to press the hem allowance. Make sure to follow up with a cool iron to set the fold.
Can I use a regular hem allowance for a blind hem?
No, blind hems require a specific hem allowance that should be narrower than a traditional hem. This will allow the hem to lay flat and create a seamless finish.
